Climbing - Which belay device do I need?
Mountain guide Hansruedi Gertsch explains the differences
Are you ready for your next climb? With a large number of different belay devices, it is not always easy to know which system is best suited for which application. Mountain guide Hansruedi Gertsch explains the differences as well as the advantages and disadvantages of the most important belay devices. No matter which belay device you use, you have to know how to use it. Concentrated belaying remains the be-all and end-all when climbing.
Munter Hitch (HMS)
I use the 'half clove hitch' or 'Munter Hitch' belay mainly for mountaineering and alpine climbing. It is important to know this belay technique because a device can get lost. Then the HMS is the best alternative.
No device = no costs = no weight
You always have it with you
Easy to learn
Twisting in the rope is increased if handled incorrectly
Brake cable must be held at all times
Reverso from Petzl (Tuber)
The Reverso serves me best in multi-pitch routes and alpine climbing. I can use the device for lead belaying and abseiling. It works with single, half and twin ropes. A real all-rounder and therefore often the first choice for me as a mountain guide.
Very versatile for all disciplines in climbing and mountaineering incl. abseiling
.Dynamic backup is easier
Light weight
Quick rope dispensing/retraction
Brake cable must be held at all times
Brake hand must be consistently held down
Grigri by Petzl (semi-automatic belay device)
I use the Grigri from Petzl mainly for indoor climbing, outdoor sport climbing and projecting. An important plus for me about this device is that the Grigri offers a high level of belay comfort because it locks with little traction on the brake hand.
Very safe, compensates for human errors
Comfort when tired
Security thanks to blocking support
Weight and cost
Only usable with single rope
.Not suitable for multi-pitch routes
.No dynamic saving
Taster course climbing
Basic skills course - multi-pitch climbing
